Trade between the West and Japan had a large impact on Western society after borders were reopened in the 1850s. Showing that influence, this gown features a fitted bodice of pink silk and matching over skirt, with a decorative front panel of contrasting black silk embroidered with asian motifs such as cranes, pagodas, cherry blossoms, and what appear to be peonies. These flowers were brought from China to Japan in the 8th century and cultivated by Japanese nobility. The floral embroidery also evokes the idea of Japanese prints, as artists in the 1860s and ‘70s became more appreciative of naturalistic designs used in Japanese fabrics and art.

The silhouette of the dress is typical of the 1870s with a sloping bustle and fitted cuirass bodice, a well-fitting bodice of the late 1870s that extended over the hips to achieve a tight, vertical, sheath-like silhouette. Skirts were often gathered in elaborate drapes to show off highly decorated second layers trimmed with bows and ruffles.