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Back of blush pink evening gown with short puff sleeves and smocked waist detailing
Front of blush pink evening gown with short puff sleeves and smocked waist detailing
Detail image of the blush pink evening gown with a smocked waist

Satin Smocked

1905

c. 1905
Silk
Gift of Jane Kirkbride

This dress was donated to our museum by Jane Kirkbride (née Harriett Jane Peacock). Jane married her husband, David- a WWII veteran and longtime resident of New Canaan- in New York City in March 1950. They raised their three children on Lambert Road in New Canaan, and Mrs. Kirkbride went on to serve as president of the New Canaan Garden Club in 1972.

This blush pink evening gown dates back to the early 1900s and can be identified in this way by the puff sleeves and full, trumpet-shaped skirt. Part of the ongoing research process as we digitize our collection includes making sure the dates for each gown are as accurate as possible. Original records surmised that the gown was worn c. 1908-1909, however upon further evaluation it is clear from the volume of the skirt indicates that this dress is an earlier style.

Edwardian evening dress favored light pastels, and popular fabrics included satin, lace, chiffon, silk crepe, and tulle. Square necklines with off-the-shoulder sleeves were a perfect way for young, unmarried women to showcase a little bit of skin, while mature and married ladies preserved their modesty with sheer or lace necks and long elbow-length sleeves. Most ballgowns and dinner dresses fancied short puff sleeves, or wide bell shapes. The pastel pink gown in our collection features heavy smocking on the waist and sleeves, to serve both as a decorative element and also a shaping one as well.

The label on the interior of the waist reads “H. Luey New York & Brooklyn”. Herbert Luey (1860-1916) was an American designer who made evening gowns. Not much information can be found on the specific designer, however a few of his dresses can be found at the Met Museum, as well as various other institutions across the country.

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